Okay, stainless springs aren’t sexy. They don’t have the hype and lore of needle springs from days past…when a horn was a horn…and a spring was a spring. The correct stainless springs can be very cool though. Why, you ask? Because they work!

Our DS Alloy Stainless springs are the most reliable for the technician and the musician. Every one out of the box can be trusted to act like a good spring - day in, day out. Stainless springs have no dangerous needle points (unless you create them). They aren’t brittle or dead, and they don’t break or rust.

Our DS Alloy Stainless Springs are made in house with the stainless wire alloy that is made and drawn to our specs. Do not confuse our springs with cheaper stainless springs that are used on poor quality instruments, or those which are sold by some suppliers.

We supply our springs with the “post flat” already stamped in. This is ideal for manufacturers and the many techs who prefer this type of spring. Some technicians will prefer to cut off or grind down the flat so that they can more precisely peen the flat to their needs. This is especially true for those who prefer to spin a point on the end of the spring, as the flat will not allow the spring to be chucked in the bench motor. To peen the “post flat” simply use our 230007 riveting hammer on the side of a 201003 bench anvil.

Some spring cradles on instruments made for needle springs are too small for a straight spring of the same diameter. The technician must choose between opening up the spring cradle, or pointing the end of the spring.

Pointing the spring is simple. Chuck up the spring in your bench motor and file one end to a point (while under power). Finish with a toolmaker’s stone or a sanding stick.

On saxophones, we find that we often need to increase the diameter of the spring when replacing needle springs with stainless. This is simple to do. Use the new spring itself as a reamer by grinding a “blade point” on one end of the spring. Using a 201027 pin vise, twist the “blade point” into the post’s spring hole. This bench made reamer will cut a precise hole for the new spring.

With a perfect hole like this, you won’t need much of a flat on the spring to hold it secure. Peen the spring only enough to secure it. Touch up the post end of the spring with a grinder so that the spring will lay flush with the post once secured.